First Dolby Atmos Blu-ray Announced! - Page 2 - High-Def Digest Forums
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  #11  
Old 09-10-2014, 01:56 PM
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Default Onkyo has a receiver that will get a Flash update for less than $600 on amazon.

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Originally Posted by malakai View Post
I was hoping the DTS NEO X receivers would come down below $1,000, and now, they have ATMOS coming out. It looks like the cheapest Atmos receivers are going to be, what, $1,500? Well, all I can say is that I hope the dts neo: x receiver(s) I'm looking at will go down in price finally. Not sure if/when I'll get ATMOS, or if it'll catch on in the home consumer marketplace.
Saw it on Amazon the other day, linked from one of the articles on this site I believe. This story links to the first receiver of three that are getting the update. http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...e-update/17629
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  #12  
Old 09-10-2014, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NJScorpio View Post
So...does anyone here have an Atmos speaker setup at home?
Just purchased the new Denon AVR-X5200W over the weekend and plan to be fully Atmos compatible by mid - October in a 7.3.4 configuration with B&Ws in the ceiling, probably from the CI600 series.
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ttringle View Post
Saw it on Amazon the other day, linked from one of the articles on this site I believe. This story links to the first receiver of three that are getting the update. http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...e-update/17629
Thanks - my speakers are setup as 9.2. So, it looks like I'd have to buy the 9.2 (Onkyo TX-NR1030 - $1,700) receiver to take advantage, unless I wanted to go back down to 7.2. Or am I wrong, because these things (Onkyo TX-NR838, for example) seem to have 9 or more speaker outputs? I knew that some receivers of yesteryear had more speaker outputs, but you had to choose either front height or wide (not both at the same time) speakers, and in some cases, had to sacrifice your back surround output, for those extra channels.

I would, however, love to hear a demo of a consumer ATMOS setup, to see if it'd be worth saving up for. Maybe best buy will eventually setup an ATMOS demo? It's not really my go-to store. Hell, I haven't been in there in years, but it's probably the only place I know of that sells that type of equipment semi-locally.

Last edited by malakai; 09-10-2014 at 04:08 PM.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2014, 03:42 PM
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Hey guys, I got, like two speakers in the back...that's pretty cool, right?

(Still rockin' 5.1)

EDIT: Also, just wondering (I guess I can google this...) but, with the 2 sub setups, are they the same frequency ranges? Same signals?
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2014, 04:02 PM
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I think upgrading the subwoofer is easier than getting 2 subs. You'll need a
.2 receiver, run another subwoofer cable, plus find another place for a giant
subwoofer. Upgrading the size/power of your sub will be more bang for your
buck.

I think 5.1 is plenty good. If it's a good setup and you calibrated it. I was
really impressed with how much better a setup sounds when it is properly
calibrated.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2014, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timcharger View Post
I think upgrading the subwoofer is easier than getting 2 subs. You'll need a
.2 receiver, run another subwoofer cable, plus find another place for a giant
subwoofer. Upgrading the size/power of your sub will be more bang for your
buck.

I think 5.1 is plenty good. If it's a good setup and you calibrated it. I was
really impressed with how much better a setup sounds when it is properly
calibrated.
As it is, my volume is plenty for my space, but I happen to have an old Aiwa powered subwoofer. It has a RCA jack style subwoofer input, plus you could the speaker wire from full range stereo speakers through it (then out to your speakers) if you don't have a subwoofer output.

I was thinking of running my 5.1 system's subwoofer speaker wire through the Aiwa sub, for "double bass"...just for fun.

But, I can imagine there being a use for two different subs in a home theater, covering two different ranges (low and ultra low?), for both fidelity and control purposes.

EDIT: Forgot...one of the reasons why I was considering chaining in that other sub was to have one sub where it currently is placed (in the front of my home theater), with the 2nd under seating or hidden somewhere. There is range control directly on the Aiwa sub, so I can set it to only the lowest of the low end, jack up the volume, and perhaps put it under a couch.
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2014, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJScorpio View Post
But, I can imagine there being a use for two different subs in a home theater, covering two different ranges (low and ultra low?), for both fidelity and control purposes.

EDIT: Forgot...one of the reasons why I was considering chaining in that other sub was to have one sub where it currently is placed (in the front of my home theater), with the 2nd under seating or hidden somewhere. There is range control directly on the Aiwa sub, so I can set it to only the lowest of the low end, jack up the volume, and perhaps put it under a couch.
There shouldn't be any problems running multiple subwoofers out of a single output. If your subwoofer has an RCA passthru, you can can us that to connect to a second receiver. If not, you can run everything through RCA Y-splitters, or in the case of long runs, you can use an A/V amplifier/distributor with rca connectors - these seem to be popular with home theater enthusiasts, since no company actual caters to this specific market. What I did was run coax in the walls and put either RCA ends on it, OR use f-type to rca adapters, splitting it off with a Y-cable or Y-adapter, and then allowing one cable to continue on to the next port. I use keystone-type plates, where each potential subwoofer would be, and you can get RCA or F-type inserts for these plates. Do not connect the coax to a coaxial splitter, as they will not carry the frequency that the subwoofers use.



With that being said, why would you put a subwoofer under your seating, when you can use tactile transducers? Just isolate the furniture well, and it's a good option. Isolation accomplishes two things: #1: It your whole house/room doesn't shake and make rattling noises when using a bass shaker #2: It works less and gives you more, since these shakers aren't putting in so many watts into shaking your whole floor or room. If this is an option for you, click on the spoiler. If not, ignore it.

Spoiler
With the riser I built (well, it's not 100% complete) I used a 2x6 frame, with 2x4 joists, to give it one level of isolation. Then, I put isolation feet (ordered from parts express) on the bottom, to give it sort of a double isolation effect.

A few more pics of the one I built:




As you can see from the above two pics, I put a few layers of osb and plywood where most of the weight would be distributed, with roofing felt in-between each layer, to prevent squeaking.



The six shakers I have installed cost about $50 apiece, sometimes on sale for like $35, and I got the amplifier for around $100 or $120 or so. I can't remember, but it was on sale. Before venturing into this type of setup, be aware of impedance issues and pay close attention to how a subwoofer plate amplifier is rated, because one wattage rating at 8 ohms will be half at 4. Generally, a subwoofer plate amp will be stable to 4ohms, which is different from some of the car amplifiers, which are routinely rated stable at 2 ohms, but if you're not sure, find out. Mine are wired in both series and parallel and I believe turn out to have a 6 ohm load. The riser itself, with the theater seats installed, is somewhere around 500 lbs. It should easily be able to shake 1,000 pounds, with three people sitting on it.

Going the bass shaker route may not be for everyone, especially when you need high power - buttkickers usually come in a kit, with a mounting system, isolation feet, and amplifier, although you can buy everything separately.


Using a second subwoofer for ultra low frequencies. Yes, I've thought about the same thing in the past. Some people may say that you shouldn't mismatch speakers and yadda yadda, but sometimes, a lot of times, things work together. With subwoofers, I think you would want to find a transitioning spot by allowing the two subwoofers to converge and intermingle at the same frequencies so that when one subwoofer cuts out and the other kicks in, it is not very noticeable, if at all. I use two matched subwoofers, matched mainly because I got a lightning deal on the second one, but the lowest they go is 24hz. It would be nice to supplement these two subwoofers with another subwoofer that could go down to 15hz or lower. To do that in a semi-affordable way, I think you'd almost have to be willing to go with some type of tactile transducer. Aura bass shakers, btw, only go down to 20hz. Of course, if money were no object, you could go with one of those $25,000 infinite baffle fan subwoofer, which basically uses a high-powered fan with a speaker coil attached to the blade, to vibrate it at a certain frequency, down to like 0hz or possibly below and uses your whole attic as its baffle.
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2014, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJScorpio View Post
I was thinking of running my 5.1 system's subwoofer speaker wire through the Aiwa sub, for "double bass"...just for fun.
You have to be careful when running multiple subwoofers, or you might wind up with bass frequencies canceling each other out.

It can be done, but you should do some reading on proper wiring and placement. Don't just assume that plopping a second subwoofer in the room will double your bass.
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2014, 08:30 PM
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This is why an SPL meter is your friend. Any basshead worth his salt has one handy.
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2014, 12:57 AM
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So is Dobly Atmos going to be that incredible or something?
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