HD Advisor June 18, 2010

[Attebery]

He's baaaaaaaaaack!

http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...ack_in_63/4915

[gravis778]

I have had this issue with media player before. There are two things that could be the culprit - video drivers and codecs.

The easiest way to check this is to download VLC and run on your HDTV. Do the videos play now? If so, than the issue is codecs. I suggest doing a Google search for KLite Mega Codec Pack and installing that.

If, after installing VLC, you still do not get video on your HDTV, than check and see if there are new video card drivers.

If in the end, you have updated your drivers, codecs, and tried VLC, and still do not get video (you should unless you have a very old model laptop), then accept that the video card on the laptop does not support this.

So, to sum up:
Download VLC and see if videos work
If videos work in VLC but not Windows Media Player, update codecs.
If videos do not work in either player, update drivers.
If still no luck, try the other approach.
If, after all that, you still have no luck, then you have a crappy video card in your laptop.

[AlbertX]

The reason for your problem is that you are probably cloning the image, I mean, you are having image on both your TV and laptop, however overlay can happen only on one of the two screens, so you must use the TV as the principal if you want to clone, so the overlay happens on the TV or dont clone, but just activate ONE screen, the one you are using, that way you shouldnt have a problem.

Hopes it helps.

[matuta]

If the image is black on the TV and displays video on the computerscreen its probably not related to drivers or codecs. If you are cloning the display then you will only get picture in windows media player on the primary display(computer screen) and not on the secondary(TV) so i would suggest you try to change so that the tv is the primary display, that should fix your problem. Another solution would be to extend the display instead of cloning it.

Without knowing more about your computed and graphicscard its hard to give more help then this.

Sorry for my bad english. =)

[krylonman]

Long story short: If you consider maintaining the 24 fps cadence an important feature, you'll ideally want a 240 Hz 3-D TV.

This might be my non-240-Hz 3DTV envy speaking, but doesn't 96Hz take care of that as well?

[Lee Stewart]

1. It is not called 'frame stacking." It is called Frame Packing. There are two versions:

a. 1080x24P for 3D BD movies
b. 720x60P for 3D BD games for the PS3.

2. A 240Hz 3DTV does not show frames at 120Hz per eye. Black frames are inserted every other frame which yields a frame rate of 60Hz per eye/120Hz total - the same as a Panasonic 3D PDP.

[Josh Z]

This might be my non-240-Hz 3DTV envy speaking, but doesn't 96Hz take care of that as well?

There aren't any 3-D TVs that run at 96 Hz.

At least, not for the current 3-D standard. I'm not sure about the older "checkerboard" or "over/under" DLP sets.

[Josh Z]

A 240Hz 3DTV does not show frames at 120Hz per eye. Black frames are inserted every other frame which yields a frame rate of 60Hz per eye/120Hz total - the same as a Panasonic 3D PDP.

That would mean that there's no way to avoid 3:2 Pulldown. That's a shame.

I'll update the article today. Thanks.

[Lee Stewart]

There aren't any 3-D TVs that run at 96 Hz.

At least, not for the current 3-D standard. I'm not sure about the older "checkerboard" or "over/under" DLP sets.

I believe (???) you can set the Panasonic 3DTVs to run at 96Hz (48 per eye) but you will see flicker.

[Lee Stewart]

That would mean that there's no way to avoid 3:2 Pulldown. That's a shame.

I'll update the article today. Thanks.

IMO, the next generation of Panasonic 3DTVs would/should use 144Hz as a total with 72Hz per eye which would get rid of the 3:2 Pulldown. It really isn't that difficult to do - stepping up from 120Hz to 144Hz, strictly for 24P 3D content. They just need to also make sure that the shutter glasses can handle that frame rate.

[Enzobot24]

If you're getting 60Hz per eye, 120Hz total, I'm pretty sure that means 1:1 cadence.

12fps per eye is a multiple of 60Hz. 60/12 = 5. Same as 24fps - 120/24 = 5. Each frame is being repeated five times.

Same math works for 96Hz 3D on the Panny. 12fps at 48Hz per eye = 4 repetitions per frame. 96/24 = 4.

So there is no judder at either refresh rate.

[Lee Stewart]

If you're getting 60Hz per eye, 120Hz total, I'm pretty sure that means 1:1 cadence.

12fps per eye is a multiple of 60Hz. 60/12 = 5. Same as 24fps - 120/24 = 5. Each frame is being repeated five times.

Same math works for 96Hz 3D on the Panny. 12fps at 48Hz per eye = 4 repetitions per frame. 96/24 = 4.

So there is no judder at either refresh rate.

The spec for 3D BD is 24 frame packed frames per second with each frame consisting of a L & R view:



With a presentation frame rate of 60 Hz per view, you can see that the 3:2 pulldown is required.

Where did you get 12 FPS?

[krylonman]

There aren't any 3-D TVs that run at 96 Hz.

At least, not for the current 3-D standard. I'm not sure about the older "checkerboard" or "over/under" DLP sets.

But...mine does. And yes, this is with a 3D signal.

[scarabaeus]

About the question, this is probably a DRM issue. Does the HDMI/DVI output of your computer support HDCP?